Recently I found my
daughter’s middle school recipe for Goulash written in her classic, left handed,
scribble. The recipe uses leftover veal,
mashed potatoes, onion soup and canned corn.
It’s not really Goulash - she just called it Goulash. Later, I noticed that she posted a recipe for
Hungarian Goulash she found while visiting Eastern Europe. I looked at it and thought, “This isn’t
Goulash either!” I’ve tasted authentic Hungarian Goulash. I didn’t travel all over Europe but I did
travel the neighborhoods of Detroit. I
grew up when there were still ethnic enclaves tucked away in parts of the
city. At school many of my friends were Post
World War II refugees, first generation Americans. It wasn’t unusual to have Gawumpki (stuffed
cabbage) at a Polish friend’s house, Baklava at a Greek friend’s and then
Manicotti at an Italian friend’s house. English
as a second language was not unusual.
Lots of things were
different then. Most of the kids I knew
had two parents. Although Dad was the
only one with an official job, Mom worked just as hard as a full time homemaker. The difference between homemaker and
housewife should be obvious. There were plenty of unhappy housewives. But the homemaker was the core of family life
and chief executive the home. In this arrangement family dinner was the
highlight of the day and, dinner preparation was a major activity. When the
entire family gathered around the dinner table, it was a chance for parents to
reconnect with the kids. It was also a
chance for the kids to make a special request or confess a minor
indiscretion. This was a sacred time and
it was considered an insult to intrude during the dinner hour. If the phone rang, everyone glared at the
ringing contraption like an uninvited guest.
Only a near death experience excused such rude behavior.
Then we improved our
lives with electric appliances and gadgets that would give us more free
time. But these new gadgets were
expensive and required two incomes to pay for them. That means two working parents with less free
time. It means Homemaker is no longer a
full time job and caring for a family is no longer important work. Homemaker
has been outsourced. Day care, nannies,
tutors, car pools, dry cleaners, maid service, lawn service, personal
assistants, personal shoppers and home delivery has replace Mom. Even the
family dinner has been replaced by bags of take out or worse yet - a singular
figure in the glow of the microwave, usually while texting. We’ve lost more
than our sense of taste.
Real Hungarian Goulash is made with lots of paprika and not a hint of tomato. Tomatoes are used in stew. Goulash is not stew. To make traditional Goulash you start by simmering red onions and garlic in olive oil. When the onions are transparent, take the skillet off the heat and mix in a couple tablespoons of paprika. Leaving the pan on the heat when you add the paprika makes the paprika bitter. Goulash should never be bitter. It should be hearty and pungent and with just a hint of sweetness. Next add in the beef, soup stock or water and cook over a slow even heat till the meat is tender. Pare and cut one or two good sized turnips into pieces. Add them to the Goulash. It’s the turnips that give Goulash that deep earthy taste. I love the smell of turnips. As soon as you start to pare them the heady aroma fills the room. Turnips are an underrated vegetable as are most of the root veggies. We seem to prefer our veggies above ground. But deep inside the earth, the vegetables grow hearty and kind of mysterious.
My carpenter husband was half Hungarian, half hearty and kind of mysterious. His father was very aristocratic British but his mother was Hungarian. He looked like his mother. He had her deep black hair and striking blue-green eyes. I often suspected that they were gypsies; only a wild hearted gypsy could look that beautiful. He was mysterious like a gypsy and kind of pungent like gypsies too. He had a deep earthy smell and never bothered with fancy grooming products. No smelly soaps or colognes, he was just unvarnished and unpretentious. I tell folks that it was love at first sight, but I think that first, I fell in love with the way he smelled. It was a powerful, intoxicating scent.
I met him while visiting
a mutual friend in Berkeley. I was
heading west to escape the rusting ice water drizzle that is a Detroit spring. I was also escaping some unhappy memories. The
trip turned out to be quite an adventure. I was mistaken for Patty Hearst in
Wisconsin, picked up hitchhiking by five drunken Indians in Colorado, spent a
week snowbound in Flagstaff before taking the train to Berkeley. I arrived at my friend’s house in the middle
of the night while everyone was sleeping.
I awoke mid-day when everyone was working. As I wandered around the empty house, all I heard
were the echoes of my own footsteps. The
eerie quiet made me uncomfortable and anxious.
I searched the
kitchen for coffee and found only herbal tea.
I tried a cup of tea but it didn’t do the trick. I needed caffeine. I paced restlessly through
the empty rooms and finally wandered outside.
I knew that the house had been designed by a student of Frank Lloyd
Wright and decided to take a look. It
was a beautiful house wrapped in green and drenched in sunshine. I sat for awhile enjoying the warmth like my
roommates fat cat. Then suddenly the air
was filled with the smell of brewing coffee.
Like Wimpy in the Popeye cartoon, I floated to the source of the
aroma. Up past the stone steps, through
the moon gate to the workshop on the side of the hill. I rounded the corner and found him there,
bent over table top, sanding with intensity and tender affection. The smell of fresh sawdust mixed with the
coffee. He caught me staring. “Coffee” I said in a kind of pleading
voice. “There, grab a cup” he replied
and then “Donna's friend eh?” “Yes” I
said and then I told him that I had arrived the night before. We chatted a bit as I got the coffee.
I admit openly that I
was thunderstruck by the man. He was
incredibly handsome to be sure. He was the
kind of figure that sets a Midwestern girls heart on fire, but it was so much
more than that. Good looks alone would
not have made my knees weak. In fact, I
think that pretty boys are vain and shallow and require too much
maintenance. Usually I give them a
pass. But there was something about this
handsome man that was unique, something I couldn’t resist. Like a magnet he pulled me inside and held on
to me.
Even from a distance
I liked the way he moved. He worked with
a kind of slow methodical assurance. He
didn’t master the wood, he caressed it and it responded to him. He was more than a builder; he was an artist
and a maker of beautiful things. His shop was lined with skillfully refurbished
antiques and bits of found treasures. Still
there was something else in his manner, a kind of masculinity that was rare back
in Detroit. The boys back home got liquored up and then got in bar fights to
prove their manhood. This man had
nothing to prove and it showed. I liked
that. And the man’s scent was
intoxicating.
Sometimes I think
that’s what’s wrong with our society. We
have saturated our environment with so many synthetic fragrances, that we’ve
lost our sense of smell. Our ability to
smell keeps us out of danger. We smell
the smoke before we see the flames; we smell the rancid food and the toxic
fumes.
Smell is the first
line of defense and the first sign of attraction. I’m a firm believer in letting pheromones
choose our life partners. If we are
misled by synthetic fragrance we could make a fatal mistake. We could believe that we’ve fallen in love
with a Ralph Lauren, Armani, Patchouli or even a reliable Old Spice and wake up
next to Aqua Velva and cheap Whiskey.
I could smell my stepfather
coming up the stairs. After the accident
he drank too much and was never the same.
I think the steel plate in his head interfered with his conscience. I think they took out his conscience and put
in that steel plate. He drank himself
into a stouper and then I could smell him, all Aqua Velva and cheap whiskey,
coming up the stairs. Late at night when Mama was still at work, you could
smell him first as he started up the stairs.
I would close my eyes and pretend
to be somewhere else. When the mornings
came, I put on my mask and faced the world.
When I came of age, I ran as far as I could. I found a man who smelled like campfire
coffee and root vegetable. I found a man
who smelled safe and we made a life. I
forgot the pain and the shame and the smell of Aqua Velva. I curled up next to the man who smelled like
turnips and sawdust and started to believe in happily ever after and that
someone loved me.
For a few years, the
Carpenter Husband and I traveled together.
It was a time of deep happiness and few words. A time of learning new recipes, breaking old
habits and trying to trust my heart. For
a short precious time, we were happy together.
I should never have exposed my fragile happiness to my family. I should have remembered their cruelty. But I
thought they would look at him, at his beautiful face, his charming grin and
his easy self-assurance and they would see that he loved me. Maybe, I hoped, knowing that someone like him
could love me, they would love me too.
It would make them think better of me.
It did not. I should have
remembered that anything I treasured would become a target to my family. They were determined to prove that their
judgment of me was correct. That either
he was a villain or that he did not love me. They did both. I should never have brought him home. Lessons learned too late.
We came home to
Michigan when I was pregnant with Max the Wunderkind. The night he was born, I had asked Kitty to
baby-sit Lilly Beth, the girl child while I went to the hospital. The next day Kitty called in a rage because
Carpenter Husband hadn’t come to pick up the Lilly Beth. When I told her that he had come to see me
first, that he had brought me a dozen roses before going to pick up Lilly Beth,
it just made her angrier. Later I
talked to Carpenter Husband and told him to pick up Lilly Beth first. He said, “I’m not going over there unless brother-in-law
is home”. I left the hospital
early.
I knew instantly that
she was up to her old tricks. It wasn’t
the first time she had sent brother-in-law on some errand, locked the kids in
the basement and answerered the door wearing only a towel. “Oh I’m so sorry! I just haven’t had a moment
to myself” she would say as the towel fell seductively to the floor. It was her modus operandi. She made a hobby of
collecting the things I loved, like totems. She took clothes, albums,
keepsakes, and birth certificates from dead children. I
should have known that she’d try to take my handsome Carpenter Husband. Eventually I did learn. Years later I would send any potential
boyfriend to meet my sister before getting serious. I didn’t warn them about her. I waited to see if they told me. Then if they did, I’d tell them about the
“sister test” and explain that “Anyone who loves me has got to be smarter than
that.” I don’t know if Kitty actually
had sex with the Carpenter Husband, but for decades she pursued him and for
even longer she tormented me with the possibility.
A few months later,
it was one of those horribly muggy, summer days and I had volunteered to
baby-sit for Kitty’s girls. Carpenter
Husband was not happy about having four kids but he agreed to do it. Later Mama had agreed to take our kids so that
Carpenter Husband and I could go out. We
had not been on a date since the spring when baby Max was born. I had Kitty’s kids for most of the day when I
found out that they were going to Mama’s house that evening. Mama had changed her mind and was taking
Kitty’s kids instead of mine. Carpenter Husband was pissed so I kept the
kids out of his way. At one point, after
they’d had lunch, I sent them out in the back yard too play. I watched them from the window while I washed
the dishes. Carpenter Husband went outside
to water the garden. Then he turned on the
sprinkler on the girls. Kitty’s oldest
girl, Mona Lisa, was playing near the garage.
It was dangerous in there, lots of tools and broken glass. Carpenter Husband yelled at her to stay out
of the garage. She was a timid child and
easily startled by his deep voice. When
she started to cry, I headed outside. Then
Carpenter Husband sprinkled her with the hose and told her to play in the water
instead. She giggled and all was well. They
darted in and out of the cool water till they were all exhausted. Not long after that Mama picked up Kitty’s girls
and took them home with her. Carpenter
Husband and I took our kids out for ice cream and a walk in the park.
A few days later Mama
called to ask how I could allow “That horrible man to do that to Kitty’s girl. How could you let him hurt the Mona Lisa?” She
said that Kitty’s girl had said that my husband had hurt her. I had no idea what she was talking about. That
one sprinkler incident was the only interaction that Carpenter Husband had with
the kids all day. I figured they were talking about Carpenter Husband yelling
at Mona Lisa. I called Kitty, but she refused
to talk to me. So I called my half-a-sister
Rayleen. At first Rayleen said she would
not speak to me as long as “That Man” was in my house. I begged her to explain. She said that Kitty’s daughter had accused
Carpenter Husband of sexually molesting her.
She said, “After what happened to you, how could you sleep with a man
like that!” She swore she would never
speak to me again till he was out of my life.
Until that moment,
the half-a-sister had never acknowledged that anything ever “happened” to
me. In fact, she led the “liar liar”
chorus. She had the whole family hating
me for lying about my step-father. I was
so confused. Later, she would deny
calling my husband a pedophile. Later
she would deny the denial. Later I would
find that half-a-sister was worse than none at all.
I kept trying to call Kitty all summer long
but she refused to speak to me. That is how she acts when she’s done something
horrible. She ran off with my first
love, my guitar totting, folk singing lazy ass first love. She came back long enough to break into my
apartment and steal from me. Time after
time, she would take the money and run.
Carpenter Husband
didn’t hear from the brother-in-law but he didn’t seem upset. He liked to call my sister “K-Mart mind” and
ridiculed her for being lazy and selfish but he considered her husband a
friend. He didn’t feel the need to defend himself. In his typical way he said, “Well, you were
there all day!” But still, it gnawed at
me. Months and months of a long hot
summer passed in familial silence. Then just
as mysteriously as it started, it was over. All forgotten and not a word ever
mentioned again.
I figured that Kitty’s accusations were
because she hadn’t been able to seduce Carpenter Husband. She hoped that
accusing Carpenter Husband of being a pedophile would drive a wedge between the
two of us. It wasn’t true. I knew it wasn’t true. I had been there all day. There was not a moment. Not a moment.
And yet, all summer long and for years after, I replayed every minute of
that day, over and over, again and again.
In spite of myself, I became afraid of the Carpenter Husband. My sleep
was restless and when he woke to sooth Lilly Beth the Dreaming Girl Child from
a nightmare, my heart sank. Kitty had
done the damage she intended without leaving a single fingerprint.
Finding out that he
had been unfaithful, that he had gambled away paychecks, and that he had been
using cocaine only gave me an excuse. I
yearned for a release from my promise to him.
His infidelity gave it to me.
Guilty or not, I could not live with the fear. For the sake of my
children I could not risk it. No matter how much I wanted to, I could no longer
smell his sweetness, his deep warm sweetness. No matter how hard I tried all I
could smell was Aqua Velva and cheap Whiskey.
Decades later, I have
loved no other, partially because I love him still and partially because I could
trust no one to sleep in the house with my children. All men may not be monsters, but the risk is
too great. I also know that as much as I
love him, I will never forgive him for breaking the only promise that ever really
mattered to me. The promise he made to our children. He found another woman, another child. He forgot all about Max the Wunderkind and
Lilly Beth the dreaming girl child. He
left a hole in lives and a hole in their hearts.
I could forgive his
infidelities, his gambling, his stinginess, his indifference and even his
betrayal. But he abandoned his children
and I was unable to protect them. He wounded them and then left them
defenseless. He made them bait for
sexual predators. This to me is
unforgivable.
So as much as I love
the deep earthy taste of real Hungarian Goulash – the paprika stings my throat
like fire ants.
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